Resin vs FDM — Which 3D Printing Method Is Right for Your Figurine?
Not all 3D printing is created equal. We break down the key differences between resin SLA and FDM printing so you can choose the right method for your anime figurine or display piece.
The world of 3D printing is evolving faster than ever, and understanding the right techniques makes all the difference between a piece that looks like a toy and one that looks like a museum-quality collectible.
Choosing your method
For figurines and highly detailed models, resin SLA printing is almost always the better choice. It can resolve details as fine as 50 microns — that's half the width of a human hair — and produces a glass-smooth surface straight off the printer that FDM simply cannot match.
FDM (fused deposition modelling) is better suited for larger structural pieces — vases, planters, desk accessories — where fine surface detail is less critical and layer lines can be sanded out.
Paint makes the difference
Even the best resin print looks like a blank model until it's painted. At Jaipur Print Adda, our painting process involves:
- Sanding with 400 → 800 → 1200 grit wet-and-dry paper
- Two coats of grey primer
- Base coating in acrylic
- Dry-brushing to bring out raised detail
- Ink wash to deepen recesses
- Airbrush for gradient effects (auras, flames, fabric)
- UV lacquer to seal
This is the process that separates a ₹1,499 figurine that looks like it costs ₹15,000 from one that looks like it costs ₹149.
Caring for your prints
Keep resin pieces out of direct sunlight — UV continues to cure resin over time and can cause yellowing. PLA items are fine in sunlight but can warp if left in a hot car. Clean with a soft damp cloth; avoid alcohol on painted surfaces.
For any questions about the right method for your project, just ask us on WhatsApp — we're happy to advise.
Founder of Jaipur Print Adda. 3D printing enthusiast with 8 years of experience in rapid prototyping and product design.